Walking on the streets of Darjeeling on a rainy day, immersed in the hustle and bustle of the vibrant town, the streets were alive with the colors of umbrellas and raincoats, and the lush green hills provided a picturesque backdrop. However, amidst this beauty, our eyes were drawn to the nallahs. Instead of clear, flowing water, they were clogged with solid waste—plastic bags, food wrappers, and other debris. The contrast was stark and unsettling, a harsh reminder of the underlying issues that mar the town’s idyllic surface. 

Dumping Chute in Darjeeling (Image Credit : Sapna Manjunath)

Known for its breathtaking landscapes and tea plantations, Darjeeling attracts a massive influx of tourists, especially during the peak months of June to August. However, the town faces significant infrastructural challenges. Designed during the British era to cater to a much smaller population, Darjeeling's current infrastructure struggles to support its residents and the seasonal surge of tourists. The outdated sanitation systems, coupled with the burgeoning population, have exacerbated the town's sanitation woes. 

Hilly areas in India have often been neglected when it comes to urban planning and infrastructure development, with a significant focus being placed on the plains. This oversight is particularly glaring given the prominence of hilly regions in the country's tourism sector. Recognizing this gap, the National Institute of Urban Affairs (NIUA) has partnered with BORDA South Asia, the Integrated Mountain Initiative (IMI), and the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) to launch the Parvat Manthan Initiative. This initiative aims to address the unique urban challenges faced by hilly cities in India, ensuring sustainable development and improved quality of life for their residents. One of the flagship projects under Parvat Manthan is the City Sanitation Plan (CSP) for Darjeeling.  

Parvat Manthan team in Darjeeling

The 10-day fieldwork provided a comprehensive understanding of Darjeeling's WASH scenario. While the town presents a picturesque facade to its visitors, the reality is starkly different for its residents. One of the most pressing issues is the erratic water supply. Many households do not receive municipal water, leading to significant disparities between the water access for tourism-related establishments and local residents. 

Disparity in water supply

Despite the presence of toilets, the lack of sewer connections means that wastewater is often discharged into open drains (nallahs), contributing to environmental pollution. Solid waste management is another critical concern. Waste is frequently dumped in open areas and stormwater drains, causing blockages and health hazards. The town's main dumping chute is in a deplorable state, with legacy waste forming a towering heap of refuse. This unmanaged waste not only mars the town's beauty but also poses severe environmental and health risks.  

To tackle the infrastructural challenges in Darjeeling, a dedicated team comprising members from BORDA, IMI, the Darjeeling Municipality, and interns from Jamia Millia Islamia embarked on a 10-day visit to Darjeeling. Prior to this visit, extensive secondary data had been collected to lay the groundwork for their primary research. The visit aimed to engage with local stakeholders, the municipality, and the community to gather firsthand information and validate the data collected. 

During their interactions, the team heard poignant stories from the residents. One local remarked,

"It is crucial to get married into a household that has water supply and a toilet—life is very tough without these two."

Another resident lamented, "There is no sense of ownership anymore in Darjeeling; hence, the town is not maintained by the residents like it used to before." These voices underscore the daily struggles faced by the people and highlight the need for urgent intervention. 

The team also observed the lack of community engagement in maintaining the town's infrastructure. This decline in civic responsibility has further compounded the sanitation issues. Despite these challenges, there is a strong sense of resilience and a desire for improvement among the residents. 

Addressing these issues is imperative not just for the health and well-being of Darjeeling's residents but also for the sustainability of its tourism industry. The Parvat Manthan Initiative aims to implement a comprehensive City Sanitation Plan that includes equitable water distribution, proper sewage systems, and effective solid waste management. In collaboration with local authorities and communities, the initiative will focus on sustainable practices and community-driven solutions to restore Darjeeling's charm and liveability.  

View of Darjeeling Town (Image Credit : Jane Thomas)